Anti-Aging—Naturally

“Our youth is fleeting; old age is just around the bend. And I can't wait to go gray.” ~ Ben Gibbard, The Sound of Settling, Death Cab for Cutie

Whenever I go to my parent’s house for a glass of wine or a Saturday morning breakfast, the issue of age seems to be brought up, or rather, the issue of aging. My mother is always telling me about the latest skin care line her dermatologist recommended, or her recent experience during her Botox injections or if only her skin were tighter here, or there, she would look so much younger.
Getting older—gray hair, wrinkles, sagging skin—is avoided like the plague; and, if you show any signs of aging you are sent off to leper island where peels, Botox, surgical lifts and paper-bags-over-the-head are mandatory before catching a ferry back to the main island, where everyone is shiny, supple-skinned and radiantly young.

Our culture is overrun with vanity and is, perhaps, narcissistically obsessed with youth. There are so many horror stories involved with the fear of aging. Kayne West’s mother dies during a liposuction procedure, Tara Reid is publicly ridiculed for her back-alley tummy tuck and Pamela Anderson’s breast reductions and augmentations are as frequent as reruns of That 70s Show. An entire industry has evolved out of this obsession and it’s absolutely booming.

 “We have become a society that is obsessed with image,” said Kristin Miller, owner/founder of Garden Girl Skin Care. “I think this is driven by a combination of the influence of fashion magazines and paparazzi-hounded celebrities coupled with significant advances in anti-aging techniques from dermatologists and plastic surgeons.”

But these more expensive options are often a luxury, and the average consumer is looking for less expensive, over-the-counter (OTC) options. Miller added: “It is becoming easier to have treatments and procedures that can alter your looks and make you appear younger—just like the celebrities. But for many, this is not an option, either due to the high cost of the treatments or simply because they are not interested in taking such drastic measures. Therefore, the OTC options for anti-aging products have become more important.”

Ken Simpson, CEO of Skin 2 Skin Care, noted, “Baby Boomers and young people in their mid 20s through old age want to look their best and be the best that they can be. Men and women want to look their youngest and should, because we are living, working and enjoying life longer than any other generation. Why look like you’re 50 when you can look 45 using good anti-aging products on your skin and body?”
Out With the Bad, In With the Good

Consumers are not only looking for less expensive measures, they are also looking for more natural approaches to anti-aging. “Women will always be on a search for the fountain of youth,” said Emma Froelich, VP personal care of Hain-Celestial. “But even the most obsessed have their limits. Many women now demand powerful, effective products without the risks of toxins or plastic surgery. Consequently, natural products are a huge force to be reckoned with in the anti-aging market.”

Parabens have become the big, bad wolf. Studies have found parabens in breast tumors (J Appli Toxicol. 2004;24(1):5-13), which is the root of controversial discussions on whether or not parabens cause cancer. As a result, natural alternatives to synthetics and paraben preservatives are on the rise, creating a new niche in the anti-aging market. Companies are tackling aging with botanicals, antioxidants and other natural ingredients.  According to Natural Marketing Institute’s 2009 Lifestyles of Health and Sustainability (LOHAS) Consumer Trends Survey, fielded in July, 7 percent of consumers (adults 18+) indicate they, or someone in their household, purchased natural/organic cosmetic products in the past six months. There is a general trend toward eating natural foods, buying energy-efficient goods and promoting sustainability, and it isn’t stopping there. The use of personal care products free of possible carcinogens and negative side effects is also part of that trend.

However, this “new” niche does raise some questions. There is often ambiguity when using terms such as “natural” and “organic.” It can mean one thing to the consumer and an entirely different thing to the manufacturer or marketer. And, as a retailer, it is important to use caution when pointing out these blanket terms, as they aren’t always what they seem.

For example, Hain-Celestial has a protocol for all its products, including: no parabens, artificial colors, formaldehyde donors, phthalates, sulfates, animal testing, aluminum, petrolatum or mineral oil; and 100 percent vegetarian ingredients, minimize/eliminate use of ethoxylated ingredients and IND-compliant labeling. To Borlind of Germany, natural and organic means the ingredients are obtained from organic or wild-crafted botanicals, the botanicals are handled gently to preserve their beneficial properties, animal-derived ingredients are cruelty-free, and packaging materials are environmentally sound.

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“Consumers need to be careful and know what they are buying because there are many skin care companies from the U.S. and Europe that uses the term ‘organic skin care’ in a way that is different from ‘certified organic’,” Simpson said. “The word ‘organic’ has several definitions, and is most commonly used to describe items that come from the earth. Many beauty companies use the words ‘organic’ and ‘natural’ interchangeably. While they may use some earth-derived ingredients and mix them with synthetic ingredients, even mineral oil is considered natural but is bad for the skin, is not the same as a company that uses certified organic ingredients.”  

Packaging also displays the concept of “natural.” “So much fancy packaging can seem to defeat the organic and sustainable purpose,” said Theresa Hellings, co-founder of the Healing Seed.
The term “anti-aging” is also subjective. When creating anti-aging products, every company has a different goal in mind and a different. To Hain Celestial Personal Care, “Anti-aging means fighting age gracefully. Not aging gracefully,” Froelich said. “Fighting gracefully and with consciousness.”

“For Garden Girl, anti-aging is more of a philosophy rather than an obsession,” Miller said.”We believe that if you take proper care of your skin, you will age gracefully and look younger naturally.”
Linda Upton, president of Börlind of Germany Inc., defined it as “… counteracting the effects of environmentally caused aging, and working to do as much as possible to delay the effects of genetic and biological aging.”.

And, to Dr. Dobbs Natural Skin Care Products, anti-aging is, “maintaining healthy skin without causing irritation or clogging pores,” said Wendy Mattuci, marketing specialist for Dr. Dobbs Natural Skin Care Products.

In the same way, misleading product claims are causing quite a stir. There are many reports of false promises and “hot” terms being thrown on labels without research or truth to back them up. Avoiding false claims and confusing marketing tactics can eliminate the “bad rep” some anti-aging product have. “I think over-promising is very dangerous,” Miller said. “Let's face facts—we can't (yet) turn back time. The best we can do is work with what we have. Consumers should not expect miracles, but we can assure them that if they follow a couple of steps, they will make a difference in their appearance.”

Froelich agreed, adding: “You have to do what you claim and claim what you do. Never, ever make a claim that will disappoint a consumer. We all know about the ‘wonder’ products that say they can perform miracles.” She noted an online ad she saw, leading the consumer to believe within 10 minutes they would look 22 again. “And what happens after six months? Sales tank. The manufacturer and the retailer are both left with expensive excess inventory and the consumer is irritated with the brand and sometimes even the store she purchased from. Trust is built over time,” she said.

One key, according to Upton, is to concentrate on structure/function claims. “Retailers should be aware that anti-aging skin care products are not supposed to penetrate below the epidermis,” she said. “Otherwise they are transdermal/OTC drugs and FDA has strict regulations regarding clinical proof of safety for long-term use.”

It is important for the industry to work collectively toward an honest and accurate approach to label claims. “If the industry is aware of a company that uses misleading label claims, retailers should not carry their products,” said Linda Miles, L. Ac., D.O.M., vice president of derma e® Natural Bodycare. “Rather than support this type of company, retailers should carry products from trusted companies that maintain a high standard of integrity.”

To put it simply, “Call them out on it and don’t purchase their goods,” Simpson said. “One of my favorite magazines [includes] a section it’s called Read The Label, and it calls out product labels that are misleading, untrue and/or the product does not perform as it states. This is what the industry needs to do if they see an abuse in advertising or question a misleading label claim: Call the vendor on it and remove the product from your shelves and let your customers know the reason.”

It may be difficult for retailers to spot the wolf in sheep’s clothing and sometimes equivocal claims can be hard to recognize ; knowing how to steer customers in the right direction can be tricky. Even with the right ingredients, the ultimate goal is to create results.

“Retailers should be knowledgeable of natural products, ingredients and their benefits in order to recommend the best solution for their consumers,” Miles said. “Retailers should also help consumers make sense of product labels. For example, does the marketing copy reflect the ingredient panel? The more educated the store owners, managers and employees become about the products offered, the more successful the retailer and consumer will be.”

Froelich added, “First, retailers can create trust with their clients by recommending well-known, established brands with excellent track records. Second, retailers can educate consumers on what ingredients to look for in their personal care products and what ingredients to shy away from.”

Simpson feels education is key. “Retailers need to educate themselves about the company and ingredients and know what they are purchasing first of all and then educate their sales staff who can educate consumers,” she said. “Consumers like to be educated on the products that they like to use and your sales team is the ones to educate them.”

Miller encourages retailers to, “Talk to the company representatives and really grill them on their knowledge. If they don't know their products, and if they don't have customer testimonials available, they are probably not selling the most effective products. There are countless natural skin care brands out there that have great-sounding ingredient lists, but they just don't work well.”

The Replacements

So what kind of ingredients should you be looking for? What anti-aging naturals are getting attention in new products?

“We are obsessed with antioxidants,” Miller said. “Through combinations of vitamins, plant extracts and butters we ensure that each and every Garden Girl product is doing its part to help repair free radical cell damage experienced daily due to exposure to the environment.”

Green tea is one popular antioxidant ingredient used in anti-aging products. “[It] contains high-antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties to help slow the signs of aging.”Miles said. “Because it is rich in polyphenols, these also help eliminate free radicals, prevent oxidative stress, protect skin from UVA and UVB radiation damage and help reduce the number of sunburn cells.”

Another popular antioxidant used in anti-aging products is vitamin C. Both Avalon Organics and JĀSÖN use vitamin C for renewal and vitality. Borlind’s System Absolute incorporates meadowfoam oil; and liposomes containing vitamin C and vitamin E, among other ingredients. “These ingredients are used because vitamins and water-based botanicals in liposomes work to repair free radical damage, hydrate, and bind moisture,” Upton said. In 2007, a study published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition (2007;86(4):1225-31) found higher intakes of vitamin C and linoleic acid and lower intakes of fats and carbohydrates were associated with better skin-aging appearances. Japanese researchers also reported on the beneficial effects of vitamin C. After six months of vitamin C application under the eye, there was an improvement in under eye dark circles (Skin Res Technol. 2009;15(2):214-17).

 In addition to antioxidants such as green tea and vitamin C, plant-based ingredients are proving to be effective. Annemarie Börlind uses botanical complexes such as tiger grass, plankton from Asia and water-based botanicals. Derma-e also uses marine-based ingredients, including the carotenoid astaxanthin. Miles explained, “Astaxanthin is harvested from micro-algae and has the amazing ability to shut down free radicals and protect the skin from UV damage (1,000 times more effective than both beta-carotene and lutein in protecting skin from exposure to UV light) and environmental stress.”

It comes down to delivering topical formulas with ingredients that support the skin. “Skin care that is made with synthetic ingredients, including colors and fragrance that can cause allergic reactions can’t offer the positive results that Skin 2 Skin Care can because they are unable to penetrate through the upper layers of the skin and into the cells to help feed, hydrate and encourage healthy cell growth,” Simpson said. Skin 2 Skin Care uses different plant-based peptides to combat aging and wrinkles.

Fatty acids are also important to skin health. “Hempseed oil is our anti-aging wonder of choice because it's the most nutritious oil we know of,” Hellings said. “It's got omega-3, -6 and -9; vitamins A, B1, B2, B3, B6, C, D and E; minerals, including magnesium, calcium, iron and zinc; and 10 amino acids. It doesn't just sit on top of the skin, but it absorbs deep into the cellular level delivering all those nutrients for optimal dermal nutrition. ”

Projections

The anti-aging market is full of potential and undiscovered ingredients. Consumers are becoming more interested in “natural” lifestyles, and that is trickling all the way to their skin care regimen. “While there have been incredible advances in anti-aging in the past few years, I think there are many more powerful natural and organic anti-aging ingredients that have yet to be discovered,” Froelich said. “Here at Hain Celestial, we literally search the world over for pure and effective anti-aging ingredients.”

And the market is growing to encompass a wider world. Upton projected, “The market is going to grow exponentially with the graying of the U.S. population. People want to live healthier and longer, and look youthful.”

And that’s the truth. The market is busting with new growth opportunities and many ingredients are waiting to be revealed. However, unsubstantiated marketing claims have taken their toll and consumers are growing skeptical and weary. But as more credible, result-driven products come out, the more trust will be restored.